Teton Summer — Guided Rock & Alpine (through Exum)
Why Exum
Exum Mountain Guides has led climbers in the Tetons for generations—founded from the partnership of Glenn Exum and Paul Petzoldt and operating continuously for over nine decades. Exum is AMGA‑accredited and an authorized National Park concessioner in Grand Teton National Park. I guide Teton summer objectives through Exum to combine a great guest experience with deep local history and systems that keep days smooth and safe.
What I Guide
Below are representative offerings I guide in the Tetons through Exum. Exact objective/ratio is finalized with Exum based on conditions, experience, and policy.
Grand Teton Programs
Classic Grand — 3‑Day Program
1 day training in the valley + 2‑day climb. Designed for newer climbers who want to fully participate in a Grand ascent; typical summit routes include Owen‑Spalding or Upper Exum Ridge (conditions/party dependent).Private Grand (Qualified Parties)
1–2 days. Route selected for conditions and pace—Owen‑Spalding, Upper Exum Ridge, Petzoldt Ridge, or other appropriate lines. Prior “checkout” climb required.
One‑Day Rock Classics
Baxter’s Pinnacle (5.6, 5.7 var.) — ~6 pitches; scenic position above Jenny Lake with a memorable rappel.
Guide’s Wall (5.8-5.9) — Historic Teton classic with big Cascade Canyon views.
Irene’s Arete (5.8-5.10) — Striking arete climbing; efficient movement day.
Open Book (5.8) — Technical corners; good for progression on gear.
The Snaz (5.10) — Long, engaging climbing in Death Canyon.
Alpine Peaks & Scrambles (1‑Day)
Middle Teton — Glacier approach and summit via standard routes.
South Teton — Beautiful ridges with options for varied difficulty.
Teewinot — Steeper scrambling and a satisfying summit.
Symmetry Spire — Great views above Jenny Lake; rock and scrambling options.
Disappointment Peak — Skills‑rich alpine day close to the valley.
Mt. St. John — Less‑traveled, scenic objectives.
The Enclosure — High‑alpine outing near the Grand.
Mt. Moran & Multi‑Day Objectives
Mt. Moran – CMC Route (5.5) — Canoe approach across Jackson Lake, camp, and summit via the CMC.
Mt. Moran – Northeast Ridge / South Buttress to Summit — Longer alpine rock objectives (often 2.5–3.5 days). NE Ridge 5.4–5.6
(Seasonal/conditions dependent) “Skillet” and other classic lines are considered with appropriate timing and experience.
Traverses (advanced; strong fitness required)
Cathedral Traverse — Teewinot → Owen → Grand link‑up.
Grand Traverse — Extended skyline link (multiple summits over several days).
Have another Teton objective in mind? Ask—I’ll advise on seasonality, prerequisites, and logistics.
How a One Day Private Grand Summit Day Works (qualified parties)
Midnight–1:00 a.m. meet at the Exum office → approach from Lupine Meadows to the Lower Saddle (~7 miles / ~5,000 ft) → choose Owen‑Spalding or Upper Exum Ridge above the Saddle based on conditions, time, and team energy → summit late morning → descend to the valley by evening. A prior “checkout” climb verifies movement and systems.
Ratios & Season Window
Typical ratios: Rock/Alpine 1:1–1:2 (occasionally 1:3 on specific routes)
Season: July–September (shoulder options as conditions allow)
Who It’s For
You’re comfortable hiking for several hours with breaks and excited to learn or apply movement and rope skills. I’ll match pace, objective, and instruction to your experience so the day feels supportive, efficient, and fun.